Mastercam X5...Crazy Z move...WTFanuc?

April 10, 2015, 3:37 pm

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I've been designing, running quite a few programs, parts for my lil guitar business. Mastercam X5, Mach 3 on my KL 1212 Router from China.

Some programs have a Crazy Z move...So I start up with everything perfect.
My PRZ is right where it's supposed to be. My part is where it's supposed to be.
I cycle start after I raise my Z up to clear the part so I don't have a drag move...THEN... display shows the Z at a new height.
Often I will stop the tool path before it plunges....I'll stop, re ZERO, then I'll manually make the first plunge. This then allows the following cuts to work properly.
Doesn't happen on all programs.
G Codes look great..... I'm baffeled

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Gildemeister CT40, Eltropilot EPL2, Data backup/reload

April 11, 2015, 9:05 am

≫ Next: Maho MH500w Lube information

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Hello to all,
I would like to backup control from Gildemeister CT 40 CNC lathe.
Could somebody explain how to backup - recive PLC-programm and other data from control Eltropilot EPL2 on Gildemeister CT40 and reloading it?
I afraid that data could lost from my mashine. Battery was not changed long time (maybe 4-5 years) on motherboard.
And next quastion: What is the proper method to change battery on mainboard?

regards
Artur

Maho MH500w Lube information

April 14, 2015, 9:24 pm

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Can anyone tell me what the recommended lubricants for a Maho MH500W3 would be? Ive dug around the forums here a bit but all the information I found was for manual or Deckel NC machines. I would assume that the Maho would be the same as the Deckel and use ISO 46 for the hyd and ISO 220 for the ways, but Id like to make sure before ordering anything.

Jim

Mori Seiki MV-Jr stalled

April 16, 2015, 10:05 am

≫ Next: Moving Mori Seiki MV-35/40

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I've finally got this machine running and all 4 axis working. I've been running it with no problems but all the work I've done has been with small cutters and no real pressure on anything (1/4" drill and mill programs in mild steel and aluminum) .

This past week I started machinING a piece of 316L SS it's basically a .75 slot 1.375 through the part. So my program center drills and then drills .5" hole all the way through, a 12mm endmill roughs ot the slot and then a 5/16" endmill cleans up my corners. On the first hole I stalled the head with the drill bit turning 480 rpm @ 1.7 ipm with a .1 peck.

I think the belt is slipping because the machine never alarmed. I was there to stop it instantly and retract the Z axis and with a pop the spindle took back off as soon as the tool moved up.

Does anyone have a procedure for tightening the belt or replacing it. Most of the machines I've run have been 7 hp but if this is normal this lil machine has no balls at all. Any help is appreciated

Moving Mori Seiki MV-35/40

April 22, 2015, 3:11 pm

≫ Next: New to Me Maho MH500W3 CNC 332

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I'm looking for advice on moving a Mori Seiki MV-35/40 that I recently purchased. Approximate weight is 15k. A manual I've read says it weighs 14100lbs. I've moved quite a bit of machinery a good ways (24" HD Shaper, Van Norman Universal Mill (9000lbs) and a 16" Monarch lathe) so I'm comfortable in the actual "transportation" portion of the machine but I'm a bit concerned on the rigging portion. I've normally used an overhead crane to place the machines on a trailer but that is unavailable for this machine. My thoughts are to rent a 15k forklift and place it on a 40ft lowboy that is heading to my house on another errand.

Does anyone see any issues with this? Has anyone moved this specific machine before? Is there something I can remove from the machine that will lower the weight and be easy to replace? I've got a spreader bar that I could use for an overhead lift of the machine but I'm thinking that adds complications.

Any input is appreciated!

New to Me Maho MH500W3 CNC 332

May 2, 2015, 7:57 pm

≫ Next: Our new 1/2 million dollar DMG Mori DMU65 is a lemon

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And I finally got it home and in the shop, so here are a few pictures.

Finding a good way to tie it down took a bit of figuring but in the end it was solid.





Yes, I do have the side covers, I just took them off so they wouldn't get bent in transit.


Once I had it in the shop I took most of the sheet metal and covers off to give it a better inspection and facilitate chasing the gremlins out of the wiring. (more to come on that in a bit)




The harassment of the wiring was my doing.








Over all the machine seams in decent condition from what I have discovered so far. Mechanically it seams solid aside from a few prior maintenance blunders, but no show stoppers. Electrically it has a few hiccups, Ive already rooted out a faulty Estop switch, and a sticky limit switch but I have managed to get it to move and reference all three axises so the drives, servos, and computer, at least so far, seem to be in working order.

I am however having a problem with getting the "RELAY EXT. DC VOLTAGE MISSING" message. I think this is an issue with a bad connection or faulty switch but I do not have the wiring diagrams so it is proving difficult to track down exactly where the fault may be.

On that note if any one has a set of wiring diagrams for this machine and wouldn't mind sharing it would be quite helpful. I have the MH500W3/W4 operators manuals in English and German, as well as a couple manuals and wiring diagrams for the MH600E in English and German and an English CNC332 programing manual(I think there are a couple pages missing)

Our new 1/2 million dollar DMG Mori DMU65 is a lemon

May 6, 2015, 3:18 pm

≫ Next: MV-35/40 and Phase Converters

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Guys,

After 90 days of ownership, we are still making machine payments, and the machine still has a mind of it's own. Is it normal for a serviceman to say things like "that's strange" "I haven't seen this before" "your right, it won't stop. well, just hit the emergency stop" I'm forced to go to social media now because every day has been a new adventure with this machine. I have a long laundry list of problems that I would like to make others aware of if they are considering purchasing one of these machines......

Chris
Charles Meisner, Inc.

MV-35/40 and Phase Converters

May 20, 2015, 7:43 pm

≫ Next: ZL-25 Possible to add C Axis?

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Hello again.

I finally got my MV-35 moved and set in place. It was quite the adventure. I'm to the point of hooking power to the machine and I want to ensure that I don't damage it in doing so. Reading the manual it states that power should be 200V/220V with a variance of 10%. This can get me as high as 242 and as low as 198 if I'm using 220V (as long as my math hasn't failed me), I've read in other forum posts that other Mori machines need to be within 2-4% of each other on each leg and I want to ensure that this isn't the case. Have any of you run an MV-35 on a phase converter that has a wild leg?

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ZL-25 Possible to add C Axis?

May 22, 2015, 9:45 am

≫ Next: Nlx2500sy / 700

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I know it's a long shot but I figured that it was worth asking. My neighbor has a ZL - 25 I believe it is a 1996 model that he does not use and is willing to let me take off of his hands for a great price. Of course a great price on that machine is still a nice chunk of change and I am curious if it may be possible down the road to add or integrate C axis into the machine. I don't need a full y most of all that I need to do is machine flats on the side of the bar stock at 90 degree angles to each other. right now I do this on the mill which is a very time-consuming pita.

I am not a lathe guy I only run a manual lathe and my NC mills, but being able to pull bar, face, machine 4 small flats, then chamfer into the cut off on tool steel would save me a ton of time.

Nlx2500sy / 700

May 26, 2015, 11:23 am

≫ Next: Maho 600E2 E-Stop Relay and Hand Control

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Interested in experienced users who use their NLX2500SY with MasterCAM. Our VAR for the software is Cimquest whom I just reached out to. Interested in what post processors are available and how well they work.

We have used MasterCAM with our HAAS 2 axis turning centers machines successfully, but we have a little bit more going on now.

Thanks in advance

Maho 600E2 E-Stop Relay and Hand Control

May 26, 2015, 1:47 pm

≫ Next: DMG Mori at a trade show ( Melbourne Victoria Australia)

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Hello all!

I got my Maho (-90 432-10 -700) to my garage last week and have been doing some cleaning and learning.

It's my very first CNC, so lots of the later one.

As I went through with the process, I noticed that the hand control did nothing. The MC 4 (or 5) was set to 1 to enable it. Values can be 0-5 where 1-5 enable the control. The control went alive with the parameter set to 2 or 4.
Everything else works well besides the E-Stop (will come back to that later) and the rotary switch that sets the jog amount (1000, 100, 10, 1) or feed speed (2, 4, 10, 20, 40, 80, 100, 140) at continuous mode.
The problem is that the jog section gives 1000, 100, 1000, 100 instead of the should be values and the feed % behaves in similar manner.
I opened it and there was a loose wire (white-black) but reconnecting it didn't help. I also re-soldered the contacts and checked that the rotary switch was OK (detached it and measured it).
Any idea what may be causing this?

I then started to investigate the hand control e-stop issue.

After some while I realized that some of the previous owners had removed the e-stop relay and replaced it with a regular 220VAC relay by taking the source for the relay coil from 220V at X1 so that the e-stop is only working from the rear and control cabinet e-stops.

I would like to restore it to the original standing so I would be needing a Pilz PNOZ 110V-WS that is marked as 6A2 at the electrics manual. But don't know which one. Could anyone check the part number or send me a pic of the actual part?

Also, while I was checking the wiring and supply voltages, I noticed that the 110V line coming to the e-stop circuitry was only 68V while everything else is at some 110-116V. I have to check why it is so. Could it be the original culprit why the Pilz was thrown away?


Btw, I've been browsing quite a bit of this forum earlier, and you guys are partially guilty of me getting the confidence to buy an old Maho :D

-Anton

DMG Mori at a trade show ( Melbourne Victoria Australia)

May 28, 2015, 2:14 am

≫ Next: MV-35 Troubleshooting

≪ Previous: Maho 600E2 E-Stop Relay and Hand Control

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Well its big, pretty fancy making a big helical gear at the show.

Can you compare it to a Mazak running win8? what type of O/S does it run?
Windows doesn't really grab me i like my apple or Linux os over it well in pc land anyway, how does it go on the machine tools, is it buggy?
Will go back tomorrow to find out more and have a look at some other brands displayed.Been out of CNC a while they sure have changed from ticker tape.

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MV-35 Troubleshooting

June 2, 2015, 4:52 pm

≫ Next: Do Indramat KDA 2.1 and 3.X interchange?

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So, I've been posting a lot recently asking questions about getting my new (to me) MV-35 up and running and I've run into some issues I was hoping someone might be able to help me with. Currently I've got the X and Y axis able to move when in the emergency release mode but not the Z. In the back cabinet the NF6 breaker pops on power up, I assumed that it was possible that I had the phases backwards and it was the hydraulic pump popping that breaker but I swapped phases and had no luck. From what I understand of the machine hydraulics should come on when I turn the control on, and that is not happening, currently sitting at zero PSI and there is also no power to the lube pump (or all the lights are burnt out). Anyone have an idea of why that breaker may be popping? I get a 49 Error - Machine Op Not Ready on control startup which flashes and kicks me to the tool input screen. Not sure why that is. The description of the alarm in the manual is De-energized magnet switch MS2 and MS6 in the electric control board.

Do Indramat KDA 2.1 and 3.X interchange?

June 3, 2015, 10:28 am

≫ Next: DuraVerical 5100 questions/Nikken 5th axis questions

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Ive got a failed Indramat KDA 2.1 100 3 A00 W1 220 drive on my Maho MH600C. I see the Indramat KDA 3.X 100 3... drives are the same form factor, are much more common, and are a lot cheaper on ebay. Anyone know if these are a drop in replacement if I swap out my personality module?

Looking at the Indramat part number chart, it looks like they are identical other than the series/version #ers (3.X as opposed to 2.1). If anyone has successfully (or unsuccessfully) done this type of swap please let me know.

DuraVerical 5100 questions/Nikken 5th axis questions

June 22, 2015, 11:02 am

≫ Next: CTX410 Fanuc 21i-TB (2199) max. Program Runtime exceeded

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I'm brand new to the forum but I've been around the block a time or two as far as production and machining. The company I work for is looking to take the leap into the CNC world and I am looking for information on the Mori DuraVertical 5100 mill. Here are a few things that bother me right off the bat and maybe others have run into this-

Right off the bat the salesman informed me that the regular retail cost of the 5100 is 150K but I'm told that they can sell me a machine for nearly 1/3 off their regular price due to overstock. Sorry but to me this throws a HUGE RED FLAG....if I were to buy this machine 6 months from now the price will be 50K higher. Call me crazy but this does not sit well with me.

What issues have guys run into with Mori mills? I have looked at Haas VF4's and for what I am doing with them they would do the job well but I have someone in the office who thinks we need Mori's and since they are so much less in price that is what we should get, tho he has no idea how to run one let alone turn one on.

For this machine they are specing out a Nikken 5AX-4MT unit also. I found out the rough cost on it from Nikken and I guess you could say sticker shock set in quickly.

Again I have run Haas for years and know their issues and where their limits are but when it comes to Mori I have no idea. I can say this-for what the Mori and Nikken unit will cost (even with the 50K off the price) I could almost pay for 2 VF4's and 2 T5C4 units. Not looking to start a whole Haas vs Mori debate, more looking for background on the both of them.

(Note-I will be machining 1018, 4140, and 1045 with cuts of up to .100 total in a production setting with many of the cuts being .05-.085 deep)

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CTX410 Fanuc 21i-TB (2199) max. Program Runtime exceeded

July 8, 2015, 12:00 pm

≫ Next: M730MB Parameter write and Reference Position set

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Hello!
I get an error [(2199) Max Program runtime exceeded] each time with cycle start both in MDI and automatic run.
The remedy according to the manual should be "correctly increase the running time parameter" which currently leaves me clueless. I have not found such a parameter nor anything close.
I can get the spindle running and the g- and m-codes in, but any linear axis move stops after a second or so with the alarm.
Any ideas?

M730MB Parameter write and Reference Position set

July 24, 2015, 11:09 am

≫ Next: DMG Mori CAPS arc programming help

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I need to reset my Z ref position, but I don't even know how to turn on Parameter Write. This is a M730MB controller with MAPPS. I think I may have found the correct Parameter, but if someone could chime in to verify that, I would be grateful.
This is on a Mori NHX4000, BTW.

DMG Mori CAPS arc programming help

July 31, 2015, 3:20 am

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Can anyone help me by explaining the arc relations when programming?

It asking for the relation: left, right, tangent or no relation from previous coordinations?

Cheers!

Mori offline programming suite

August 10, 2015, 7:42 am

≫ Next: Removing Maho MH400C bellow cover. (that is falling apart because of cooling?)

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Just bought a new NLX2500 (we also have an NZX) and decided to purchase the offline programming software for it. We bought the version that would program anything except the NT. Has anyone out there used it, and how well is it working out for you? How is the support? We have had great success with Mori products and I greatly respect it. I have no expectation of any issues, but it is always good to have your eyes open.

Removing Maho MH400C bellow cover. (that is falling apart because of cooling?)

August 30, 2015, 1:10 pm

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Hello everybody,

I seem to have problems removing my Maho bellow covers. They are screwed with alan screws on the outside which are easy to remove and slide over what looks like a curtain rail which is also easy to remove.
The problem is however that i can't seem to find any screws on the side of the table. They are not visible and i really (really really) hope i don't have to remove the bed to remove these bellow covers...

The problem i am having with the covers is that the sheet metal pieces are falling off because the glue is letting loose. Could the glue be letting loose because of the coolant i am using? I am having problems with the coolant on a lot of the parts that i have painted, The paint is just letting go. It was no 2 component paint but just an acrylic paint. But it made me thing about the glue letting loose....

Any help would be very appreciated!
Best regards,
Peter Teurlings

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